Brake Inspection: Signs You Need One and How to Do It Catch problems early, avoid big bills

A quick inspection keeps you safe, prevents surprise bills, and stops the guessing. Catching thin pads before they grind protects rotors and calipers.

• High-pitched squeal: Wear indicator tab saying “check me soon.”
• Grinding/scraping: Pad is gone; metal on metal—parts are already at risk.
• Clunks/rattles: Loose hardware or clips moving around.

• Soft or spongy: Could be air, moisture, or a leak in the system.
• Very hard pedal: Possible brake booster or vacuum issue.
• Pedal vibration/pulse: Often warped rotors or uneven pad deposits.

• Pulls to one side: Sticking caliper, uneven pads, or hose issue.
• Longer stopping distance: Pads may be thin or glazed; system may have air.
• Steering wheel shakes: Common with rotor issues or uneven front braking.

• Brake or ABS light on the dash.
• Low brake fluid in the reservoir.
• Pads thinner than ~3–4 mm visible through wheel spokes.
• Deep grooves or blue spots on rotors; burning smell after hard braking.

• Quick check: Every oil change (~5,000–7,500 miles).
• Full inspection: At least once a year.
• Extra checks: Before road trips, after towing or mountain driving, when buying a used car.

• Short test drive: Windows down—listen for squeals/grinds; light taps for pull or shake; one firm stop for confidence.
• Look through spokes: Pad thickness should be several millimeters; rotors shouldn’t have deep grooves or blue spots.
• Check fluid level (don’t open system): Between MIN and MAX; very low or very dark fluid needs pro attention.
• Parking brake test: On a gentle slope—should hold without rolling.

• Grinding, severe vibration, or a soft pedal that sinks.
• Brake light on, or fluid leaks near wheels/under the car.
• Not confident removing wheels safely.

A professional inspection checks pad/rotor thickness, calipers, hoses, slide pins, brake balance, and ABS—spotting issues you can’t see from the outside.